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(Compliments of Robison-Anton
Textile Company)
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101
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Foremost, the design must be
programmed correctly for metallic thread. It is essential that your
puncher know the type and size of metallic thread, along with the fabric
on which it will be stitched. Stitch length and density will need to
be adjusted accordingly.
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Be aware of the design limitations
for metallic thread. It is advisable that letters under (1/4") in
height should not be stitched.
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When stitching with metallic on any
machine, make certain that your equipment is in excellent running
condition. Also, the thread guides should be free of rough
spots. When switching to metallic from another thread type,
start with a new needle. The bobbin cases should also be checked
and cleaned.
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The size of the needle is very
important for high productivity. "J" Metallic should be stitched
with at least a 75/11 depending on the eye and style of this size.
However, an 80/12 can assure you the best results.
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Metallic is less pliable, therefore,
tensions should be readjusted. A sample run is recommended
on the production fabric before attempting to run the production order.
Metallic thread will usually run as well as rayon, provided that
tensions are run looser than normal. Fabric type and weight, along
with the execution of the design, will determine how loose or tight
tensions should be set.
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The thinnest bobbin thread is
also recommended.
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A soft material and backing
should be used whenever possible Hard or stiff materials can be too
abrasive to the metallic thread.
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Machine speed may need to be
adjusted. A slower speed will facilitate the production of more
difficult designs.
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101
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